Key Turning Points in Japanese Whisky History

Luis Hood
Luis Hood
Fifteen years as a master bourbon distiller.

When we talk about the history of Japanese whisky, it's quite an interesting story, almost like a dramatic TV series with many twists and turns. I think there are a few key turning points:

1. The Dream Begins: The Story of Two Men

This can be called the "genesis" of Japanese whisky. The protagonists of the story are two men: Shinjiro Torii (founder of Suntory) and Masataka Taketsuru (founder of Nikka).

  • Shinjiro Torii was a visionary entrepreneur who wanted to create his own whisky in Japan.
  • Masataka Taketsuru was a technical genius; he actually went to Scotland alone, apprenticed at several distilleries, learned the complete whisky-making technique, and even married a Scottish woman.

The two hit it off: Torii provided the capital, and Taketsuru provided the expertise. In 1923, they established Japan's first whisky distillery – the Yamazaki Distillery. This was the first turning point; without it, nothing else could have happened. However, their philosophies diverged later, and Taketsuru went to Hokkaido, a region more akin to Scotland, to establish the Yoichi Distillery. This led to the competitive landscape between today's two giants, Suntory and Nikka.

2. Gaining a Foothold at Home: The Era of the Highball

When whisky first appeared, Japanese people weren't quite accustomed to its "smoky" flavor. To help people accept it, distilleries came up with an ingenious idea – the Highball (ハイボール), which is whisky mixed with soda water.

Starting in the 1950s, and especially in the 70s and 80s, Suntory turned the Highball into a national drink. Drinking Highballs became fashionable in various izakayas and small restaurants. This transformed whisky from a "Western liquor" into an everyday beverage for Japanese people, firmly rooting it in the local culture. This was the second turning point, providing the mass appeal necessary for the Japanese whisky industry to survive and thrive.

3. Astonishing the World: A Cascade of Awards

For a long time, outside of Japan, the world considered Japanese whisky merely an "imitator" of Scotch whisky, not worthy of serious recognition.

This situation completely changed in the early 21st century. Starting in 2001, Nikka's "Yoichi 10 Year Old" won a major international award, like the first domino falling. Subsequently, Suntory's "Yamazaki," "Hakushu," and "Hibiki" also began to win numerous awards in international blind tasting competitions, repeatedly beating top Scottish brands.

The most iconic event occurred in 2013, when The Whisky Bible awarded "Yamazaki Sherry Cask 2013" the title of "World Whisky of the Year." This exploded like a nuclear bomb, shocking whisky enthusiasts worldwide: "What? The best whisky isn't from Scotland, but from Japan?"

This was the most crucial third turning point. From then on, Japanese whisky was no longer an imitator but was recognized as a world-class whisky in its own right, celebrated for its unique "Eastern Zen" and delicately balanced style.

4. The "Massan" Effect and Today's "Hard to Find a Bottle"

After gaining international fame, a whirlwind also swept through Japan. In 2014, Japan's NHK television aired a morning drama called "Massan" (マッサン), which told the entrepreneurial story of Masataka Taketsuru and his Scottish wife.

The show was incredibly popular, sparking immense interest and pride among ordinary Japanese people in the history and craftsmanship of local whisky. Domestic demand instantly exploded.

The international boom, coupled with domestic adoration, directly led to the fourth turning point, which we can keenly feel today: a shortage of aged stock. Because whisky requires long maturation, and distilleries had very low production during the economic downturn of the 1990s, they simply didn't have enough aged whisky stored. As a result, many familiar age-statement whiskies (such as "Hakushu 12 Year Old" and "Hibiki 17 Year Old") were discontinued, and the price of Japanese whisky on the market soared, turning it into a luxury item that is hard to find a bottle of.

In summary, Japanese whisky has evolved step by step: from a dream of imitating Scotland, to integrating into local culture through the Highball, then astonishing the world and gaining recognition, and finally facing the "happy problem" of being too popular. Each turning point is full of compelling stories.