What are the must-see ruins in the ancient city of Polonnaruwa, Sri Lanka?

嘿，你要去波隆纳鲁沃啊，那可真是个好地方！这地方不像其他古城那么拥挤，骑着自行车穿梭在千年遗迹和丛林之间，感觉特别棒。

别看它叫“古城”，其实地方特别大，景点很分散。你要是第一次去，很容易抓不住重点。我给你捋一捋，哪些是必看中的必看，保证你不虚此行。

简单来说，你可以把波隆纳鲁沃的精华分成“一个核心区”和“一组石像”，然后再点缀上其他几个大个儿的遗迹。

1. 必去的核心区：四方庭院 (The Quadrangle)

这个地方是整个古城的“心脏”，也是遗迹最密集、最精华的区域。你买的门票钱，可以说一大半都花在这儿了。它是一个用围墙圈起来的平台，上面集中了好几个最重要的建筑。

• 圆形佛舍 (Vatadage): 这绝对是四方庭院里的“C位”！一个圆形的平台，有四个入口，每个入口都对着一尊精美的佛像。台阶和栏杆上的雕刻特别漂亮，尤其是月亮石（Moonstone），是整个斯里兰卡最精美的之一。这里拍照超级上镜，随便一拍都是大片。
• 阿塔达格神庙 (Atadage) & 哈塔达格神庙 (Hatadage): 名字有点绕，你就记着它们是“曾经存放佛牙舍利的地方”就行了。虽然佛牙现在在康提，但这俩神庙的历史地位非常高。
• 石书 (Gal Potha): 一本巨大的“石头书”，上面刻满了国王尼桑卡·马拉的功绩。你可以想象一下，在没有纸张的年代，国王是怎么想方设法让自己的丰功伟绩流传千古的。
• 尼桑卡·拉塔·曼达帕耶 (Nissanka Latha Mandapaya): 一个很特别的小亭子，里面的柱子雕刻成了莲花茎的形状，据说以前僧侣就是在这里面听经的。造型很优美，别错过。

2. 震撼人心的石刻群：伽尔寺 (Gal Vihara)

如果说四方庭院是建筑的精华，那伽尔寺就是雕刻艺术的巅峰。这里是在一整块巨大的花岗岩上雕刻出的四尊佛像，每一尊都形态各异，栩栩如生。

• 坐佛: 最左边的一尊，呈禅定姿态，神态非常安详。
• 立佛: 据说这尊比较特别，双臂交叉在胸前，表情略带忧伤，有人说这代表了佛陀的慈悲。
• 卧佛: 最右边最巨大的一尊，长达14米，描绘的是佛陀涅槃的场景。那种宁静和宏伟的感觉，只有亲眼看到才能体会。
• 还有一尊小的坐佛在石洞里。

这组石像所传递出的平静和力量感，是整个古城最让人印象深刻的地方之一。

3. 其他不容错过的“大个子”们

除了上面两个精华组合，还有几个散落的大型遗迹，也非常值得一看。

• 兰卡提拉卡佛殿 (Lankathilaka Vihara): 一座没有屋顶的巨大佛殿，墙壁非常高。走进去，两边是高耸的墙壁，尽头是一尊巨大的无头立佛。那种残缺的宏伟感特别有冲击力，非常有历史的沧桑感。
• 兰科特寺 (Rankoth Vehera): 这是古城里最大的一座砖砌佛塔，远远就能看到它巨大的圆形塔身。你可以绕着它走一圈，感受一下它的规模。
• 国王的宫殿 (Royal Palace): 现在只剩下了巨大的地基和几层楼高的残墙，但从墙壁的厚度和结构，你依然能想象出当年宫殿的宏伟。旁边还有国王的议政厅（Audience Hall），基座上的大象雕刻非常值得一看。
• 湿婆神庙2号 (Shiva Devale No. 2): 这是古城里保存最完好的建筑之一，风格和佛教遗迹明显不同，是印度教的石砌神庙。小巧而精致，可以看出当时文化的交融。

给你的小贴士：

• 交通: 在波隆纳鲁沃游览，强烈推荐租一辆自行车！ 这是体验古城的最佳方式，自由自在，累了就在树荫下歇会儿，特别惬意。如果怕晒或者不想骑车，也可以包一辆Tuk-tuk车，司机会带你逛完所有主要景点。
• 穿着: 准备好防晒霜、帽子和太阳镜，这里非常晒。记得穿一双舒服的鞋子，并且最好再带一双袜子。因为进入所有寺庙遗址都需要脱鞋，中午地面会烫得你“跳脚”，穿双袜子会好很多。
• 门票: 门票通常在考古博物馆购买，买了票才能进入古城核心区。
• 时间: 慢慢逛的话，需要差不多一整天的时间。建议早点出发，避开中午最热的时候。

祝你在波隆纳鲁沃玩得开心，好好享受那份穿越时空的宁静！ Hey, you're going to Polonnaruwa, what a great choice! Unlike other ancient cities, this place isn't as crowded, and cycling through millennia-old ruins and jungles feels absolutely wonderful.

Don't let its name "ancient city" fool you; it's actually very large, and the attractions are quite spread out. If it's your first time, it's easy to miss the main highlights. Let me break down the absolute must-sees for you, guaranteeing a worthwhile trip.

Simply put, you can divide the essence of Polonnaruwa into "one core area" and "a group of stone statues," then sprinkle in a few other major ruins.

1. The Must-Visit Core Area: The Quadrangle

This area is the "heart" of the entire ancient city, and also where the ruins are most concentrated and exquisite. You could say a large portion of your ticket money goes towards this place. It's a platform enclosed by walls, housing several of the most important structures.

• Vatadage (Circular Relic House): This is definitely the "centerpiece" of the Quadrangle! A circular platform with four entrances, each facing a beautifully crafted Buddha statue. The carvings on the steps and railings are particularly stunning, especially the Moonstone, which is one of the most exquisite in all of Sri Lanka. It's incredibly photogenic here; any shot you take will look magnificent.
• Atadage & Hatadage: The names are a bit convoluted, just remember them as "places where the Sacred Tooth Relic was once kept." Although the Tooth Relic is now in Kandy, these two temples hold very high historical significance.
• Gal Potha (Stone Book): A giant "stone book" inscribed with the achievements of King Nissanka Malla. Imagine how, in an era without paper, the king found ways to ensure his great deeds would be remembered for eternity.
• Nissanka Latha Mandapaya: A very unique small pavilion where the pillars are carved in the shape of lotus stems. It's said that monks used to listen to sermons here. Its design is very elegant, don't miss it.

2. Awe-Inspiring Stone Carvings: Gal Vihara

If the Quadrangle represents the pinnacle of architecture, then Gal Vihara is the zenith of sculptural art. Here, four Buddha statues are carved out of a single massive granite rock, each with a distinct form and lifelike presence.

• Seated Buddha: The leftmost statue, in a meditative pose, with a very serene expression.
• Standing Buddha: This one is said to be quite unique, with arms crossed over the chest and a slightly melancholic expression. Some say this represents the Buddha's compassion.
• Reclining Buddha: The largest statue on the far right, measuring 14 meters long, depicting the scene of the Buddha's Parinirvana. The sense of tranquility and grandeur can only be truly appreciated in person.
• There is also a smaller seated Buddha inside a cave.

The sense of peace and power conveyed by this group of statues is one of the most impressive aspects of the entire ancient city.

3. Other Unmissable "Big Ones"

Besides the two essential combinations above, there are a few scattered large ruins that are also well worth seeing.

• Lankathilaka Vihara: A massive, roofless temple with very high walls. Walking inside, with towering walls on both sides, you'll find a huge headless standing Buddha at the end. The sense of majestic incompleteness is particularly striking, imbued with a profound historical gravitas.
• Rankoth Vehera: This is the largest brick stupa in the ancient city, its massive circular body visible from afar. You can walk around it to appreciate its scale.
• Royal Palace: Only the massive foundations and several stories of ruined walls remain, but from the thickness and structure of the walls, you can still imagine the palace's former grandeur. Next to it is the Audience Hall, with elephant carvings on its base that are well worth seeing.
• Shiva Devale No. 2: This is one of the best-preserved buildings in the ancient city, with a style distinctly different from the Buddhist ruins, being a Hindu stone temple. Small and exquisite, it showcases the cultural fusion of the time.

A Few Tips for You:

• Transportation: For exploring Polonnaruwa, I highly recommend renting a bicycle! It's the best way to experience the ancient city, offering freedom to stop and rest under the shade whenever you like, which is particularly pleasant. If you're worried about the sun or don't want to cycle, you can also hire a Tuk-tuk, and the driver will take you to all the main attractions.
• Attire: Prepare sunscreen, a hat, and sunglasses; it gets very sunny here. Remember to wear comfortable shoes and ideally bring a pair of socks. This is because you need to remove your shoes to enter all temple ruins, and the ground can get scorching hot at midday; wearing socks will make it much more comfortable.
• Tickets: Tickets are usually purchased at the Archaeological Museum. You need a ticket to enter the core area of the ancient city.
• Time: If you explore at a leisurely pace, you'll need almost a full day. It's advisable to start early to avoid the hottest part of the day.

I wish you a wonderful time in Polonnaronuwa, and enjoy that timeless tranquility!