Why do Japanese whisky distilleries tend towards internal diversification of production rather than exchanging raw spirits?

Rita Richards
Rita Richards
Whisky distiller with two decades of experience.

Ah, you've hit on a crucial point! This is a fundamental difference between Japanese and Scotch whisky. I'll try to explain it in simple terms.

You can imagine this whole thing as "running a restaurant."

In Scotland, it's like a massive food court. There are hundreds of stalls (distilleries), some specializing in spicy crayfish (like Islay's peated flavors), some in steamed sea bass (Speyside's floral and fruity notes), and others in roasted lamb leg. There's a big boss in the food court (like Diageo, Pernod Ricard, these large groups) who wants to launch a "land, sea, and air deluxe set meal" (blended whisky). He doesn't need to personally raise shrimp, fish, or sheep; he just goes to various stalls to source the best ingredients, and then his head chef (master blender) blends them into the most delicious set meal. This process of "mutually sourcing ingredients" is what we call "spirit exchange."

On the other hand, Japan is more like a few Michelin-starred head chefs, such as "Chef Suntory" and "Chef Nikka." They run their own independent restaurants, rather than setting up stalls in a food court.

Why don't they "cross-source" ingredients from each other? There are several main reasons:

1. Historical Reasons: The "Master and Apprentice" Rivalry

This goes back to the two founding fathers of Japanese whisky: Shinjiro Torii, founder of Suntory, and Masataka Taketsuru, founder of Nikka. Taketsuru went to Scotland to learn the craft and, upon his return, first helped Torii establish Japan's first whisky distillery – Yamazaki Distillery. However, their philosophies diverged, and Taketsuru eventually went his own way to found Nikka.

From then on, these two became the biggest rivals. Think about it, would Coca-Cola buy concentrate from Pepsi to blend its new flavors? Of course not. So, from the very beginning, the Japanese whisky industry never developed the tradition of "exchanging spirits." Everyone kept to themselves, focusing on their own craft.

2. The "All-Rounder" Born Out of Necessity

Since they couldn't buy different flavored "ingredients" from their neighbors, what could they do? They had to do it themselves, becoming self-sufficient.

To blend whiskies with rich layers of flavor (like Suntory's "Hibiki" or Nikka's "From the Barrel"), blenders needed access to a wide variety of different-flavored spirits. So, Japanese distilleries went to great lengths to produce a diverse range of spirits all within a single distillery.

How did they achieve this? They took "detail control" to the extreme:

  • Using different stills: Generally, stills in Scotch distilleries look quite similar. But if you visit Japan's Yamazaki Distillery, it's practically a "museum" of stills, with all sorts of shapes and sizes. Different stills produce spirits with different flavor profiles.
  • Using different yeast strains: Different yeasts can produce various floral and fruity aromas.
  • Using different oak casks: This is the most crucial aspect. They not only use common Scotch casks like Bourbon and Sherry casks but also extensively use the very precious and uniquely flavored "Mizunara Oak" (a Japanese-specific oak), which imparts an oriental, mysterious aroma of sandalwood and agarwood.

So, a Japanese distillery is like an all-rounder Michelin-starred chef. They don't just cook fish; they also make steaks, desserts, and even handle growing vegetables and raising cattle themselves. The goal is to ensure that every dish served (every bottle of whisky) bears their signature from start to finish, with quality entirely under their control.

3. Embodiment of "Shokunin Spirit"

This is also related to the "Shokunin spirit" in Japanese culture, which is an attitude of pursuing perfection and continuous improvement. They are not content with being just one stall in a "food court" specializing in a particular flavor; they aim to create an "independent kingdom" where everything from raw materials to the final product is perfectly controlled. This method of internal diversification, though costly and challenging, maximizes the uniqueness and stability of the final product.

In summary:

Scotland is about "team collaboration," with clear divisions of labor, collectively building a vast flavor library.

Japan, on the other hand, is about "individual heroism." Due to historical rivalries and market conditions, each major producer has been forced to become an "all-rounder," a one-person army capable of doing everything from start to finish.

So, the next time you drink a Japanese blended whisky, like "Hibiki," know that the dozens of different flavored spirits it contains likely all come from Suntory's own Yamazaki, Hakushu, and Chita distilleries, rather than being sourced externally. This is one of the fascinating aspects of Japanese whisky: an extremism born from competition and perfected through craftsmanship.