Why are Mount Fuji motifs frequently painted on the walls of Japanese public bathhouses (sento)?
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Why Do Japanese Public Baths (Sento) Often Have Fuji Painted on the Wall?
Great question! That’s indeed a very interesting and almost standard sight in Japanese sento. You walk into this steamy bathhouse, look up, and there it is – a grand Fuji mural filling the space. It’s an incredibly evocative touch.
There are actually several quite interesting reasons behind this tradition. Let’s look at them one by one:
1. An Accidental Origin: Making Customers Happy
We have to go back over a hundred years. It’s said that the first bathhouse to paint Mt. Fuji on its wall was one called "Kikai-yu" in Kanda, Tokyo, in 1912 (the first year of the Taisho era).
The owner of this sento was from Shizuoka Prefecture, where he could see the majestic Mount Fuji clearly from his hometown. Wishing to make his customers (especially kids) happier and more relaxed while bathing, he commissioned a sign painter named Kawagoe Seizo to paint a mural. What to paint? Naturally, he thought of his hometown's pride – Mt. Fuji.
The result was a huge hit! Customers loved soaking in the piping hot water while gazing at the magnificent Fuji, finding immense relaxation for both body and mind. This idea caught fire. Sento around Tokyo and beyond quickly started copying it. Gradually, the Fuji mural became standard sento decor.
2. Visual "Openness": Big Scenery in a Small Space
Think about it: bathhouses are usually enclosed, steamy spaces. Sticking around too long can feel a bit stuffy.
The Fuji mural almost always depicts Fuji under blue skies with white clouds, a snow-capped peak, and often lakes or seas at its broad base. Painting such a wide, cavernous image on the wall creates a significant sense of expanded space and depth. It acts like a "false window," making you feel immersed in nature while you bathe. This lifts the spirits and eases that feeling of being closed in.
3. Auspicious Symbolism: Fuji's Sacred Aura
In Japanese culture, Fuji is far more than just a beautiful mountain. It’s considered a sacred mountain (reibō).
- Good Fortune and Longevity: Japanese beliefs hold that Fuji possesses divine power, bringing good luck. Its name "Fuji" sounds similar to the words for "immortality" (fushi) and "safety" or "absence of trouble" (buji). Thus, it also symbolizes longevity and health. Bathing (cleansing the body while gazing at Fuji, which represents longevity and health), is a double blessing!
- "One Fuji, Two Hawks, Three Eggplants": This Japanese saying refers to the three luckiest subjects for the "first dream" (hatsu-yume) of the New Year. Dreaming of these promises good fortune for the coming year. Fuji is ranked number one, showing just how auspicious it is considered in the Japanese psyche.
Therefore, painting Fuji in the sento also embodies the owners' heartfelt wishes for their customers' health, safety, and good fortune.
4. "National Nostalgia": Japan's 'Hometown' Mountain
For many people who migrated from regional Japan to major cities like Tokyo for work, Fuji symbolizes the entire nation. It represents the "hometown" (furusato) deep in their heart.
In the era before TV and internet, the public bath was a vital social hub. People would wash away a hard day's toil, chatting with neighbours. Looking up at the familiar image of Fuji was like seeing the mountains of home, providing immense psychological comfort and a strong sense of belonging.
In short, Fuji murals in sento likely started as a single owner's unique whim. However, because they perfectly met people's multiple needs – visual, psychological, and cultural – they persisted. They became a deeply ingrained tradition.
So next time you have the chance to soak in a Japanese sento, don't forget to look up at the mural! Appreciate that unique Japanese ambiance and feel the well-wishes painted into the scene.