How to effectively use a bicycle's gear system to tackle varying gradients?

Adina Striebitz-Cichorius
Adina Striebitz-Cichorius
Urban cycling advocate and daily bike commuter for over 7 years.

Hello, friend! When it comes to bicycle gear shifting, many people find it daunting, but once you understand it, it's as simple as changing your stride while walking. Don't think of it as high-tech; it's just a tool to make your ride more comfortable and less strenuous.

Let's start with the most fundamental principle: the ultimate goal of shifting gears is to keep your pedaling cadence (how fast you're spinning your legs) as stable and comfortable as possible. Whether you're going uphill, downhill, or on flat ground, your feet should be circling at a consistent, moderate pace, rather than struggling to pedal uphill or spinning like a sewing machine downhill.

Keeping this core idea in mind, let's look at how to operate it:

On your handlebars, you typically have a shifter on both your left and right hands.

  • Right Shifter: This is your "main" shifter, used over 90% of the time. It controls the cluster of large and small cogs on your rear wheel. You can think of it as "fine-tuning" or "half-gears."
  • Left Shifter: This is your "secondary" shifter, used only when crucial. It controls the two or three large chainrings next to your pedals. You can think of it as "large-range switching" or "high/low speed modes."

Alright, now let's simulate actual road conditions:

1. Riding on Flat Ground

This is the simplest state. Typically, you should place your left shifter on the large chainring (the biggest one next to your pedals), and then use your right hand to fine-tune the rear gears until you feel the pedaling effort and speed are just right. Not tiring, but not feeling empty either.

2. Seeing a Hill Ahead (Crucial Moment!)

The most important trick is: always shift before you feel it's getting difficult! You must shift into the appropriate gear before the climb, while you still have good speed. Never wait until you can barely pedal and your speed has dropped before fumbling to shift; that puts a lot of stress on the chain and gears, can cause loud "clunking" noises, and even lead to a dropped chain.

  • Gentle Slope: When you see a slope ahead, first use your right hand to shift the rear cogs to larger cogs by one or two gears (you'll immediately feel your legs lighten). This is like preparing to walk up a gentle incline by taking smaller, easier steps.
  • Steep Hill: If the hill is very steep, and you've already shifted your right hand to the largest, easiest cog at the back but still feel like you're pedaling against a wall, then it's time for your left hand to step in. Decisively shift the front large chainring to the small chainring. This change will be very, very noticeable; your legs will suddenly feel much lighter, like switching from "hardcore mode" to "easy mode." After shifting to the small chainring, you might need to fine-tune with your right hand again to find the most comfortable pedaling rhythm.

To summarize uphill shifting: first use your right hand (fine-tune), if that's not enough, then use your left hand (big switch).

3. Descending

When going downhill, to avoid spinning your legs aimlessly, you need to shift into a "heavier" gear. The operation is exactly the opposite.

  • First, use your right hand to shift the rear cogs to smaller cogs.
  • If you're going very fast and even after shifting your right hand to the smallest cog it's not enough, then use your left hand to shift the front small chainring back to the large chainring.

A Few Pro Tips:

  • Be Gentle with Your Feet When Shifting: When you press the shifter lever and the chain is "climbing" to another cog, ease up on your pedaling force just a little bit. This will make shifting very smooth and quiet.
  • Avoid "Cross-Chaining": This is a common beginner mistake and is bad for your bike. Simply put, don't let your chain be in an "extremely twisted" state. For example: the front chainring is on the largest ring, and the rear cog is also on the largest cog (big-to-big); or the front is on the smallest ring, and the rear is also on the smallest cog (small-to-small). If you look down at your chain, you'll see it's very diagonal. This causes faster wear and feels awkward to ride. The correct approach is to keep the chain relatively straight.
  • Listen and Feel: Your bike will give you feedback when shifting. Smooth shifts are almost silent. If you hear a loud "clunking" sound, it means your shifting timing or pedaling force is off.
  • Don't Be Afraid, Play Around: Find a flat area or a small slope with no cars or people, and just ride back and forth, constantly shifting gears, to feel how your legs respond to different gear combinations. After playing for ten minutes or so, you'll quickly get the hang of it.

Don't worry, this is something you'll understand once you try it, much faster than reading a manual. Happy riding!