Are there 'style schools' or 'stylistic divisions' among Japanese whisky producers?
Haha, that's a very interesting question, and one that many friends new to Japanese whisky often wonder about.
The simple and direct answer is: Yes, but it's completely different from the 'regional style' classification we're familiar with in Scotch whisky.
You can think of it this way:
Scotch Whisky: Like a city with many 'specialty' restaurants
In Scotland, whisky styles are closely tied to geography. For example:
- Islay: It's like the city's 'heavy-flavored barbecue district,' where the restaurants (distilleries) are famous for making smoky, medicinal-tasting whiskies, such as Laphroaig and Ardbeg.
- Speyside: This is like the 'dessert and garden restaurant district,' where most restaurants (distilleries) produce whiskies full of floral, fruity, elegant, and sweet notes, like Macallan and Glenfiddich.
These restaurants have very distinct styles. If a master chef (blender) wants to create a grand feast (blended whisky), they'll buy some smoky 'meat' from the barbecue joint and some sweet 'cake' from the dessert shop, combining them. It's very common for them to trade spirits among themselves.
Japanese Whisky: Like two massive 'all-rounder' food courts
The situation in Japan is completely different. Historically, the two giants of Japanese whisky—Suntory and Nikka—were fierce rivals, competing with each other, and neither would sell their spirits to the other.
This led to one outcome: they had to be self-sufficient.
Each group had to master the ability to produce all kinds of flavored spirits themselves. So, rather than 'styles' or 'schools,' it's more accurate to describe them as distinct 'style systems' or 'philosophies' developed by the two major groups.
1. The Suntory System: The 'Oriental Zen School' pursuing harmony, complexity, and balance
- Core Philosophy: Suntory's goal is to create a whisky that is exquisitely balanced, multi-layered, and caters to the refined palates of East Asians. They are like a top-tier kitchen capable of producing every dish from appetizers to main courses to desserts.
- Its Twin Stars:
- Yamazaki Distillery: This is the heart of Suntory, a true 'whisky all-rounder.' It boasts various still shapes and uses a wide array of different oak casks (including the unique Japanese Mizunara oak), capable of producing spirits ranging from fresh and fruity to rich and sherry-influenced. Its style is opulent, complex, and mellow.
- Hakushu Distillery: Built in a forest, its style mirrors its environment—fresh, with subtle grassy and minty notes, sometimes producing spirits with a light smokiness. Its style is crisp, clean, and ethereal.
- Final Creations: By blending spirits from Yamazaki and Hakushu (as well as Chita grain whisky), Suntory creates perfectly harmonious works of art like 'Hibiki'.
2. The Nikka System: The 'Tough Guy Powerhouse' honoring tradition and pursuing strength and individuality
- Core Philosophy: Nikka's founder, Masataka Taketsuru, returned from studying in Scotland, so his philosophy leans more towards Scottish tradition, pursuing a robust, powerful body and distinct character in his whiskies.
- Its Twin Stars:
- Yoichi Distillery: Located in Hokkaido, its climate and geography are similar to Scotland. Yoichi insists on using traditional coal-fired pot stills, which gives its spirits a strong, powerful character with distinct smokiness and sea-salt notes—very 'manly' or 'rugged.'
- Miyagikyo Distillery: Its style is completely opposite. Situated in a valley, it uses indirect steam heating, producing very soft, elegant spirits full of floral and fruity notes, somewhat akin to the Speyside region of Scotland.
- Final Creations: By blending spirits from these two distinctly different styles, Nikka creates works like 'Taketsuru,' which possess both strength and elegance.
To summarize:
So, you see, the classification of 'styles' or 'schools' in Japanese whisky isn't based on 'what the east tastes like versus what the west tastes like,' but rather:
- Company-centric: Suntory is one 'school,' and Nikka is another.
- Internal stylistic diversity: Each company has the capability to produce spirits of vastly different styles internally, much like an orchestra that has drummers, bassists, violinists, and pianists, capable of performing an entire symphony themselves without needing to borrow members from other orchestras.
Currently, some new-generation independent distilleries like Chichibu are also emerging. They have very distinct personalities and are forming their own unique styles. However, for now, the overall landscape of Japanese whisky is still dominated by these two major 'systems' of Suntory and Nikka.
Hope this explanation helps!